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 Linen Production
Linen refers to yarn and cloth made of fibers from the flax plant stalk. The fibers are from 6 to 40 inches long, and are chiefly cellulose. The stalks are pulled (not cut), tied into bundles and dried in the sun. Then they pass through a coarse comb that removes the seeds.
Next comes a process called retting, actually a form of rotting.
Dew Retting: the stalks are spread on grass and kept moist for several weeks. The combined action of bacteria and moisture decomposes the tissue surrounding the true flax fibers. The fibers can then be separated from the woody bark and straw of the stalk.
Water Retting: more commonly, the stalks are retted in slow-moving bogs for 1 to 2 weeks, or in large tanks of warm water for 4 - 8 days.
After retting, the flax stems are dried and sent through a machine that breaks them into pieces called shives. Next, in a process called scutching, the machine separates the shives from the fibers. In the next step, called hackling, the fiber is combed to produces long parallel fibers called line, and short fibers called tow. The tow is spun into yarns by methods similar to those of spinning cotton. Special machinery spins the long line linen fibers into fine yarns.
Linen History
Linen is the oldest textile material in the world. Evidence shows Flax being grown 9,000 years ago in Syria & Turkey. The Egyptians grew Flax along the Nile river 7,000 years ago, and the ancient linen used to wrap mummies has lasted just as long. Evidence of linen has been also found in Switzerland that is 10,000 years old, and it has always been used in Europe in varying degrees. In fact, the term 'lingerie' came from the use of linen as undergarments in the middle ages. Modern use of linen began in Europe in the 1600's, and the tradition of fine linen weaving is notable in France, Belgium, and Ireland. However, linen weaving never became popular in the United States, because in 1793, Eli Whitney invented the cotton gin, which made cotton yarn more economical that linen yarn.
Flax
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Of the 230 species of flax, only one "Linum usitatissimum" is grown commercially. Differences of this species are grown for fiber and for seed. The plant grows 3 to 4 feet and has white or blue flowers. The variety grown for fiber has a slender stem that branches near the top. Seed flax is bushier, and is grown for linseed oil.
Fiber flax is harvested 3 to 4 months after planting. If the plants are harvested too early, the fibers will be fine and silky, but weak. If the plants become too ripe, the fibers will be stiff and rough and difficult to spin into yarn.
France and Belgium produce high quality fiber, which is also more costly. Flax fiber is also produced in Eastern Europe, and on a limited scale in Ireland and Canada. The Soviet Union cultivates flax extensively, but despite a large total yield, the quality of the fiber is inferior to that of Western Europe, and is naturally less expensive.
Linen Quality
 There are a number of factors that can affect the quality of linen. About two thirds of a single crop will be 'line' fibers, which are 24" to 36" (60 to 90 cm) in length, and the remaining third will be 'Tow' fibers, which are 4" to 6" (10 to 15 cm) in length. The longer 'line' fibers make a much higher quality, and much more expensive linen fabric. The price of the long fibers is much higher because of the demand for better quality, and because the fibers are more difficult and costly to handle and to mill.
Many factors in the growing season will affect the quality of the linen. Some factors are the time and weather of harvesting. It is critical to maximize the fiber length and strength without letting it get too old and coarse. Flax that has grown during the summer and harvested during the late summer will produce taller flax plants, which means longer and stronger fibers. However, the flax field cannot be used for other crops as it is too late in the season, therefore the linen grown at this time will be much more expensive as well. Soil conditions will affect the crop, as well as the care and attention of the farmer.
The lower quality linens are used for less expensive items, such as certain clothing, tea towels, friction towels, and other household linens. Chances are, if you find inexpensive bed sheets, they will have been made from low quality linen fibers, and they will neither be as soft or strong. They will also tend to feel course after laundering, and over time will be disappointing in comparison to the more costly good quality linens. What you pay for is definitely what you get!
Visit our Care of Linen page for information on how to care for your linen items.
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